Spain and Portugal, being the far western appendage of the European continent and separated from the rest by the small matter of the Pyrenees mountain range, tend to get overlooked when considering a European tour. This is a shame, because both are at least as interesting to visit as most other European countries, in terms of sights, culture and two fascinating and lengthy histories.

So be different and experience the real life of these two captivating countries with a 13-day tour, taking in the two capital cities, two of the oldest and most prestigious university towns in Europe (one of which was also a capital during the 12th and 13th centuries), a hub of Neolithic life 6000 years ago and two former centres of the Moorish European empire. On the way you will see some of the strangest, most magical and just downright gargantuan structures to be found in this part of the world, while passing through periods of Christian, Moorish, Roman and Neolithic habitation as well, of course, as enjoying something of modern Spanish and Portuguese life.

In keeping with the essence of the tour, accommodation is in a variety of establishments selected for their character, history or location - a former monastery or palace, for example, or perched atop one of Lisbon's seven hills, with magnificent views over the city and river.

As with everything we do, flexibility is key and if you want something different, we can almost certainly do it. The following, however, is what we consider to be an excellent way to experience the Iberian Peninsula.

Day 1
We begin in Madrid, capital of Spain. Sitting atop a plateau 2275ft / 700m above sea level in the centre of the country, this city of 3 million inhabitants exudes atmosphere and activity. More so than in any other European city is the centre pulsing with so many people so late into the night and morning, visiting the many clubs and bars, or just strolling and socialising.

Art-lovers can overdose in Madrid, with three world-class galleries on offer, the Museo del Prado, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. We visit the most famous of the three, the Prado, where entire series of rooms are devoted to three of Spain's most celebrated artists - El Greco, Goya and Velazquez. Additional offerings on display include works by Dutch, Flemish, French, German, Italian and other Spanish artists.

We also call in at the Royal Palace today. A colossal edifice containing about 2800 rooms, this was begun by King Felipe V in the 18th century with a specific aim of dwarfing all its European rivals. Around 50 rooms are open to visitors, including the royal apartments, the highlights of which are the sumptuous Throne Room, the

Porcelain Room, the gala dining room and the music rooms. You can also visit the Royal Pharmacy and Royal Armoury. The palace is still used today for ceremonial occasions, although the royal family themselves no longer use it very often.

Walking between the Prado and the Palace takes us to the Puerta del Sol, the official centre of Madrid (distances from Madrid to the rest of Spain are measured from this square). Here you will find the statue which has become the symbol of the city, a bear muzzling a strawberry tree (so called because the fruits look like strawberries, not because the Spaniards grow strawberries on trees). There is also a statue of the Bourbon King Carlos III and the clocktower which is the focal point for residents of Madrid celebrating the striking of midnight on New Year's Eve.

Nearby is the Convent of the Barefoot Royals, which is also worth a visit. This was converted from a palace in the 16th century by Dona Juana, daughter of King Carlos I, and she was followed by a group of illustrious women, known as the Barefoot Royals, who became Franciscan nuns.

We will also pass through Madrid's main square, the 17th century Plaza Major, and possibly take time out for a drink at one of the cafes while watching the world (lots of it) go by.

For a more relaxing stroll there is the Retiro park, Madrid's prettiest public gardens, with its lake and, at weekends, a variety of street performers, or the Royal Botanic Gardens. For evening entertainment, there is no end of restaurants, cafes, bars, nightclubs, theatres, cabarets etc. to keep you occupied.

Day 2
There will be time for further sightseeing this morning in Madrid, before we head out to Salamanca, about 120 miles / 190km north-west of Madrid, passing through the mountains of the Sierra de Guadarrama on the way. Salamanca's fame in medieval times was based on its university, which was founded in 1218 and during the following centuries was considered the equal of Oxford and Bologna, reaching the peak of its renown in the 15th and 16th centuries. Although with diminished prestige, the university still thrives today and its rich copper hues, together with those of the city's churches, are unparalleled in the whole of Spain. Lying on the northern bank of the River Tormes, Salamanca remains a compact and busy student town.

Another breathtaking facade is that of the church of the Convento de San Esteban. In effect it is a huge stone retablo, depicting the stoning of St. Stephen (San Esteban). A second, ornate retablo forms the central feature of the church's interior.

There are two cathedrals, the old and the new. The 12th century Old Cathedral presents a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Byzantine elements and is home to one of Europe's oldest organs. The most eye-catching features of the New Cathedral are its magnificent Renaissance doors and the dome and tower rising above the centre of the city. Salamanca's 18th century Plaza Major is considered to be one of Spain's most enchanting central squares.

Day 3
After a final look at Salamanca this morning, we leave Spain and cross into Portugal, heading for Coimbra, around 200 miles / 320km away, skirting as we do so the Serra de Estrela mountain range, which boasts the Torre, Portugal's highest mainland peak at 6477ft / 1993m.
Just short of Coimbra itself, we will stop at the Bucaco National Forest. Carmelite monks began planting this forest in 1628, introducing exotic species as they progressed, and it has been for centuries a religious haven, a place of peace and tranquility, shut off from the outside world by a high stone wall, although you can nowadays walk the forest trails to your heart's content.

Yet more steps lead up to the Graduate's Hall, which has a catwalk giving more superb views of the city. Pride of place, however, goes to the 18th century Joao V library, boasting ebony, jacaranda and rosewood tables, chinoiserie designs etched in gilt and ceiling frescoes, not to mention around 300,000 ancient, leather-bound books.

Also worth a visit is the impressive Church of the Holy Cross, with its Renaissance porch and flamboyant, 18th century arch, which is home to some of the Coimbra School's finest sculpture. The city has in addition an old and a new cathedral. For a little pleasant relaxation, it is possible to take a boat trip on the river, or a stroll around the Botanical Gardens.

Coimbra is one of the main centres in Portugal for the melancholic 'fado', the country's most famous style of music. Originating in Lisbon's 18th century working class districts, fado songs are traditionally sung by one performer, accompanied by a 12-string Portuguese 'guitarra', a pear-shaped guitar. Today there are two styles of fado music, one from Lisbon, still considered to be the most authentic, and one from Coimbra. The latter praises the beauty of women and, as such, is traditionally only sung by men. It may be possible in the evening to catch a live performance of fado in one of the bars, clubs or restaurants in town.

Day 4
A rest from travelling today. We spend the day exploring Coimbra, finishing with a second night at the Quinta das Lagrimas.

Day 5
Back on the road, we head south to Lisbon, making two stops en route. The first is for something old and remarkable, the second for something remarkably big - colossal, in fact.

Just 10 miles / 16km out of Coimbra, the Roman ruins at Conimbriga are far and away the finest in Portugal and rank alongside the best on the entire Iberian Peninsula. Under Roman rule, Conimbriga was built into a major city, home to numerous wealthy inhabitants and, consequently, many palatial houses and villas. In the 5th century, the population fled the city to avoid impending attack, a decision which saved it from destruction. There is today a small museum which sets the scene, then the ruins themselves. Among these, you can view the elaborate and extraordinary mosaic floors, heated baths, pools and fountains of domestic life in the 1st to 5th centuries. One particularly imposing villa boasts its own baths, pools and sophisticated underground heating system.

Towards the other end of today's journey, we stop again about 25 miles / 40km short of Lisbon at the gigantic Mafra National Palace, known as the most extravagant structure in Portugal. Set in its own 2048 acre / 819ha park and hunting ground, where wild boar and deer still roam, the palace was built during the 18th century, when Dom Joao V had more gold flowing in from Brazil than he knew usefully what to do with. Its colossal expense was one of the contributing factors to the eventual ruination of the country's economy.
The numbers speak for themselves: 1200 halls and rooms; over 4700 doorways; 2500 windows; 2 bell-towers, with the world's largest collection of bells (92); 20,000 artisans worked on it, rising to an unbelievable 45,000 during the final two years of construction, all watched over by 7,000 soldiers. Eventually comprising a monastery to house 280 monks and 140 novices, a basilica and two royal wings, after all the money and effort expended on the palace, the royal family hardly ever used it.
A tour takes in numerous salons and apartments (not all 1200, you'll be relieved to hear), containing an extraordinary array of curious furniture and decoration, as well as an impressive, barrell-vaulted library, 270ft / 86m long and home to almost 40,000 books from the 15th to 18th centuries.

The day ends in Lisbon, capital of Portugal, with accommodation for the next three nights at the Solar do Castelo. Although the building originally housed the

Day 6
The capital of Portugal lies at your feet as you awake today - literally, in view of the elevated position of your hotel. It became the capital in the mid-13th century, after the Moors had lost the city to Christian fighters a century earlier and been driven south from the centre of the country. Lisbon has a real roller-coaster of a history. Successive settlement by the Phoenecians 3000 years ago, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Moors and Christians was followed by a period of fabulous wealth in the 15th to 17th centuries, as the city became the centre of a vast empire and a base for merchants trading in gold, spices, silks, jewels etc., aided in no small measure by Vasco da Gama's discovery of a sea route to India. There have been earthquakes, most notably that of 1755, which killed a third of the city's inhabitants, fires, tidal wave, revolutions, coups..........

The roller-coaster analogy extends further to Lisbon's physical layout, undulating as it does across seven hills overlooking the estuary of the River Tejo. The river itself is spanned by two bridges, the Ponte 25 Abril, which is Europe's longest suspension bridge, and the newer, 10.75 mile / 17.2km Vasco da Gama Bridge. Yellow trams and funiculars trundle up and down the hills, each of which is crowned by a castle or church and spectacular viewpoint, with outstanding views over the city and river. One of the funiculars is the world's first street funicular, having begun its trundling in 1884.

A major part of Lisbon's charm emanates from its feeling of having been frozen in time - small, specialist shops continue to thrive and there are countless signs of times gone by. It is a particularly enjoyable city to explore, either on foot or, in view of the steeply up-and-down nature of its terrain, by a combination of foot, tram and funicular.

courtyards and you can climb and walk around the battlements for stunning views across the city. Close to the castle entrance is Olisiponia, an exhibition on Lisbon's history, using multi-lingual commentary and a video wall.

From here, we walk down into the Alfama district, passing on the way the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, another marvellous viewpoint, and the Largo das Portas do Sol (the 'sun gateway'), which was originally one of the seven Moorish gateways. The Alfama was once an upper-class Moorish district and, having been built on the steep, rocky hillside, it was one of the few areas of Lisbon to survive the 1755 earthquake. It remains today a warren of steep, narrow streets, with a distinctly Arabic feel. The Alfama is also the birthplace of fado and there is a vibrant museum here tracing its history. We continue downwards, past the 12th century cathedral and on to the Praca do Comercio, Lisbon's grandest square, lying opposite the river. This is where visitors arriving by sea or river used to disembark and the huge square, with its grandiose architecture, was a proclamation of Portugal's wealth and power at the time. It was also the venue for the end of the Portuguese monarchy, when King Carlos I and his son were assassinated here in 1908.

We are now in the Baixa district and from here we take a tram along the riverfront to Belem, a district of tremendous importance to Portugal's history and which hosts two UNESCO World Heritage sites. From here it was that Vasco da Gama set sail in 1497 on the two-year voyage which led to the discovery of a sea route to India, shifting the world's balance of power and bringing immense wealth to Portugal. Before departing, Vasco da Gama and his officers kept an all-night vigil at a riverside chapel. When he returned safely, Dom Manuel I had a monastery built on the site of the chapel - the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, St. Mary of Bethlehem (Belem) - hence the district's name. Begun

around 1501, four successive architects worked on it until completion in 1541, giving it a fusion of Gothic, Renaissance and Classical styles. An extra wing and the domed bell-tower were added in the 19th century. Monks of the Order of St. Jerome lived here and Vasco da Gama himself is buried here. The monastery is a supreme example of extravagant Manueline architecture (an elaborate Gothic/Renaissance style of Dom Manuel I's 16th century, when money was no object) and is marvellous to behold, both inside and out.

The nearby Torre de Belem (Belem Tower) is the area's second UNESCO World Heritage Site and another Manueline masterpiece. Built around 1515 to guard the

entrance to Lisbon's harbour, it now symbolises the Age of Discoveries.

Taking the tram back to the Baixa district, we make our way to the Rossio square, alive with people, cafes and fountains. On the way, you might like to ride the Elevador de Santa Justa, a curious, wrought-iron lift, built in 1902, which rises 100ft / 32m above street level to a cafe and viewing point. The square itself was once the location for markets, fairs and bullfights, as well as a palace which hosted many of the excesses of the Portuguese Inquisition. The church in which the Inquisition's judgements were pronounced still stands nearby. The cobbled, undulating mosaic patterns of the square's walkways led to the nickname 'Rolling Motion Square'.

From the square, the best tram ride in Lisbon takes us back up through the Alfama. Leaving the tram at the top, the final stretch back to the hotel passes the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, a viewpoint with superb views of the castle, the Mouraria Moorish district and the city. We can also call in at the wonderful Igreja de Sao Vicente de Fora, a 12th century monastery built on the burial sites of foreign crusaders and presenting the remarkable sight of over 14,500 blue-and-white, hand-made tiles from the 18th century tripping gaily across almost every wall, including a unique tableau of 38 panels depicting La Fontaines fables. There is finally the National Pantheon, containing marble cenotaphs to historic and literary figures, before you arrive back at the Solar do Castelo.

The aim today is for you to experience some of the different faces Lisbon has to offer - stupendous views, the best historical buildings and monuments and street life in both ancient and more modern districts. Although the day is planned in such a way that you walk down the hill from the castle and ride back up, it can nevertheless be a long day. It can however always be shortened or amended, or both, according to your own inclinations (and stamina). There are in any case plenty of opportunites throughout the day to stop for a drink and a rest.

If you do have energy left for the evening, there is an array of cafes, restaurants, bars and clubs and plenty of opportunity to sample Lisbon's version of fado.

Day 7
We spend today in magical Sintra, a mere 18 miles / 28km drive north-west of Lisbon and a fairy-tale land of extravagant and bizarre palaces, monasteries and mansions, set on the slopes of the Serra de Sintra mountain range among wonderful woodlands of exotic trees and plants, which makes even the walks between attractions a pleasurable experience. The historic centre of the town itself is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Dominating the town is the Sintra National Palace, sporting two massive, white conical chimneys above the kitchens. Built originally by the Moors, it has over the years been repeatedly restored, redecorated and enlarged by successive kings and now comprises a combination of three different royal residences. Amongst the decoration are some of the oldest hand-painted tiles in Portugal, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The Portuguese royalty used to use this palace for hunting trips or to escape Lisbon's heat or bouts of plague and it has been the scene of a number of notable events in the country's history.
A tour will include the Swan Room, its ceiling adorned with gold-collared swans; the Magpie Room, this time with, unsurprisingly, magpies painted on the ceiling; the Armoury Room; Joao I's bedroom; the Palatine Chapel; the huge kitchen; and the Arab Room, with some incredible 16th century tiles.

One of the highlights of a visit to Sintra, the Quinta da Regaleira villa and gardens, is an early 20th century folly dreamed up by an Italian designer of opera sets. Symbols from the Knights Templar, freemasonry, alchemy and mythology abound in theatrical extravagance. Exploring the gardens is a delight, following paths winding through exotic foliage to follies, fountains, grottoes, lakes and underground caverns. And then there is the Poco Iniciato, the 'Initiation Well', where you walk down a spiral to a depth of almost 100ft / 30m to find underground galleries lit by fairy lights.

Appearing above the trees of one Sintra peak are the lavender, lemon and rose-tinted turrets and battlements of the bizarre, magical Palacio Nacional de Pena (National Palace of Pena). In addition to the truly amazing exterior, the interior is equally compelling, the rooms remaining much as they were when Queen Amelia left after the declaration of the republic in 1910, packed with fascinating decoration, furnishings and an assortment of other curious treasures.

To visit the extraordinary and magical Capuchin monastery, you need to take on the guise of a hobbit or Alice, of Wonderland fame, as you squeeze through to explore the warren of cells, chapel, cavern and kitchen. It was built in1560 as home to 12 monks and is tiny. The monks' cells have low, narrow doors, in readiness for their eventual trip to heaven ('the way to heaven is sinuous and its doors low and narrow' - gospel according to St. Matthew). The monks lived a simple life here of humility and seclusion, in incredibly cramped conditions, until the monastery, also known as the Cork Convent after the cork-lined walls of the monks' cells, was finally abandoned in 1834.

Draped over the mountain above the town are the ruins of a Moorish castle, with wonderful views from the battlements. You can go for a stroll through the 75 acres / 30ha of exotic trees and plants that comprise romantic Monserrate park. If either is of interest, there is also an enchanting toy museum, with an international collection of over 20,000 items dating back 3000 years and a world-class Museum of Modern Art.

At the end of the day, we return to Lisbon and the Solar do Castelo for the night.

Day 8
This morning we leave Lisbon behind us, crossing the river and heading out into the Alentejo region. A vast expanse of rolling hills and open plains, oceans of waving wheatfields, the breadbasket of Portugal, this is one of Portugal's poorest regions, but also home to one of its architecturally richest towns. This afternoon, you also go back 6000 years in time. Evora is a lively university town, set on a hill above the plain with a centre enclosed by 14th and 17th century walls, surrounded by neolithic monuments and wineries and recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Focal point of the town is the Praca do Giraldo square, which has had its share of historic moments, such as the 15th century execution of Fernando, Duke of Braganca and the 16th century burnings of victims of the Inquisition. Nowadays, sitting in the sun with a cold drink are seen as more acceptable pastimes.
A climb to the top of the fortress-like cathedral, begun in the 12th century with later additions, is rewarded with some fine views. The displays in the cathedral museum give an indication of the enormous wealth of the church, with ecclesiastical items absolutely dripping with precious stones and gold (as well as a couple of Ming vases, for good measure).

The Romans were here, as evidenced by the temple they left behind. Dating from the 2nd or 3rd century and sporting 14 marble-capped Corinthian columns, this is the best-preserved Roman monument in Portugal, probably even on the entire Iberian Peninsula. Further signs of Roman life were discovered less than 20 years ago in the Town Hall. The baths there would have been the largest building in town in their heyday and included a heated room for steam baths, with a superbly-preserved, 29ft / 9m diameter circular pool and an open-air swimming pool.

These same Romans, however, were latecomers to the area. The Alentejo is home to an amazing quantity of neolithic remains and megaliths are scattered all over the ancient countryside surrounding Evora. There are incredible examples of dolmens, menhirs and stone circles to be seen, dating back 5-6000 years.
The Almendres stone circle, reached via a gorgeous landscape of olive and cork trees, is the Iberian Peninsula's most important megalithic group and an extraordinary sight. A giant oval, comprising 95 granite monoliths, some engraved with symbolic markings, extends down a slope. They are thought to have been erected with astral and geometric considerations in mind and probably used for social gatherings or sacred rituals. A short distance away is the Almendres Menhir, a single stone about 13ft / 4m high, with some carving near the top.
The Great Dolmen of Zambujeiro is a national monument and Europe's largest dolmen, comprising 7 stones in a field, each almost 20ft / 6m high, forming a chamber over 162ft / 50m in diameter.
Also in the area is the 17th century Anta Capela de Sao Brissos, a small, whitewashed chapel, built using dolmen stones and thus an unusual example of megalithic remains being re-used in a Christian context.
Further away, about 16 miles / 25km from Evora, is a cave, the Gruta do Escoural, containing some palaeolithic and neolithic rock art, including faint drawings of bison and engravings of horses, dated to between 10,000 and 30,000 years ago. For added interest, the cave is also home to a thoroughly modern colony of real live bats.

Local companies offer 3-4 hour tours of the megalithic remains, complete with knowledgeable guide and vehicles suitable for the often rough terrain. The plan for today is to take one of these tours in the afternoon (not included in our tour price) and spend the rest of the day sightseeing in the town itself. Unfortunately, neolithic man (and woman) didn't need to think of car access when carrying out building works and they put some of their structures in spots which our Mercedes saloon was not designed to reach.

Day 9
This morning there will be time to finish off any outstanding sightseeing from yesterday, before leaving Evora, crossing back into Spain and continuing on to Seville, where we will arrive during the course of the afternoon.
One of the homes in Spain of flamenco and bullfighting, Seville is also known for putting on each year one of the wildest carnivals and one of the most magnificent processions - each lasts a week - in the country. It is a city with an atmosphere of joie de vivre, best experienced by joining the crowds of locals thronging the streets on a warm summer's evening. In addition, Seville is famously hot in July and August, to the extent that many locals leave for cooler climes at this time of year.

Seville has a chequered history of good and bad times. For many hundreds of years, the city was under Muslim rule, until the Christian Fernando III El Santo took control in 1248. A great city in the Muslim era, at one stage being capital of a realm encompassing Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco and Andalucia, its real golden age followed the discovery of the Americas in 1492. Seville was given a monopoly on trade with the newly-discovered continent, aided by its access to the sea via the River Guadalquivir. This rich prosperity endured until an outbreak of plague in the mid-17th century wiped out half the city's population and, in the second half of the century, progressive silting up of the Guadalquivir forced shipping to switch to the port of Cadiz and the American trade was eventually lost.

Today, Seville is a vibrant city. Straddling the river, its centre is a maze of narrow, twisting streets and small squares with three major attractions - the Muslim Alcazar fortress palace, the Christian cathedral and the latter's Giralda tower. Their renown, and that of Seville itself, can be gauged from the 1995 marriage of King Juan Carlos I's daughter in the cathedral, with the wedding feast following in the Alcazar.

The Alcazar was founded as a fort by the Muslim rulers in 913, however a succession of alterations, expansions and additions of palaces by both Muslim and Christian rulers over the ensuing centuries turned it into more of a palace. Several of the Christian monarchs used the Alcazar as a permanent residence.
A tour takes you through a number of pretty courtyards and rooms with impressive decoration. Most magnificent however is the Palace of Dom Pedro who, being on good terms with Mohammed V, the Muslim emir of Granada at the time, asked him for some help when he decided to build himself a new palace (as one does) in 1364. Mohammed sent some of his best artisans, who were supplemented by others, mainly Muslims again, from Seville itself and Jews and Muslims from Toledo. The result was a magnificent fusion of Iberian Muslim art. This unusual mix is typified by two inscriptions on the facade, one referring to the originator of the building as Dom Pedro 'by the grace of God', the other declaring 'There is no conqueror but Allah'.
There are some wonderful courtyards to be seen, with lovely arches, plasterwork and tiling. Rooms include those that were probably the king and queen's bedrooms and the Hall of Ambassadors, which was Dom Pedro's throne room and has a superb wooden dome of multiple star patterns, symbolising the universe. As a respite for eyes and brain, there are gardens to stroll around. Originally laid out in Muslim times, their present form dates back to some re-working in the 16th and 17th centuries.

After the Christians took Seville in 1248, the city's main mosque was used as a church. In 1401 the authorities decided it was in such a poor state of repair that they would demolish it and build anew. And they decided to build it big - very big. According to legend, they agreed to create 'such a building that future generations will take us for lunatics'. What they created is, in terms of area, the world's third-largest cathedral, trailing only St. Peter's in Rome and St. Paul's in London - 520ft / 160m wide by 455ft / 140m long. Construction took about one hundred years, mostly in Gothic style, although after the dome collapsed in 1511, the resulting rebuilding work was completed in Renaissance style.
The first surprise comes as you enter the outer courtyard. This is pleasantly planted with orange trees, but also has, hanging from the roof, an elephant's tusk and a stuffed crocodile, this latter being a present sent by the Sultan of Egypt in 1260 to Alfonso X, whose daughter he wished to marry.
Inside the cathedral proper is a wealth of art and artisanry to rival that of any church in Spain. Chapels display sculptures; paintings, stained glass and religious treasures abound. There are works by Goya and Murillo and a Gothic retablo said to be the largest altarpiece in the world. Christopher Columbus' impressive tomb is here, as is the silver and bronze tomb of Fernando III (containing his mummified body) and those of his wife and son.

Adjacent to the cathedral and Alcazar are two districts of narrow, winding streets and plant-bedecked squares, ripe for wandering through and stopping off for some food and a cooling drink, while the banks of the River Guadalquivir are another pleasant option for a relaxing stroll.

Seville is one of the birthplaces and capitals of flamenco and there are bars and shows where this traditional dance can be experienced.
For a totally different experience, Seville is also one of Spain's bullfighting capitals. Fights take place Sunday evenings in the bullring here, which is considered one of the most elegant and oldest in the country.

Day 10
Today is spent exploring Seville, with a second night at La Casa del Maestro.

Day 11
This morning we continue west to Granada. At its peak, around the 13th century, this city was among the richest and most populous in Europe. Having outlasted Seville as a Muslim stronghold, it finally fell to the Christians in the final years of the 15th century. Nowadays it is a wealthy city of about 270,000 people, with an international feel due mainly to the number of tourists constantly in town.

La Alhambra comprises two main parts, the Alcazaba (fortress) and the Casa Real (Royal Palace). Begun as a fortress in the 9th century, it was regularly restored and expanded over the following centuries. The Casa Real was added in the 14th century, the mosque was replaced with a church and convent and one wing of the Casa Real was later replaced with a massive Renaissance palace, the Palacio de Carlos V.
All that remains of the Alcazaba are the ramparts and several towers. A narrow, winding staircase leads to the top terrace of the tallest of the towers, from where there are superb views of the city and its surroundings.

It is, however, the Casa Real which is the jewel in the Alhambra crown,with its intricately carved stucco walls, fine knotted wooden ceilings, elaborate honeycomb vaulting, beautifully proportioned rooms and courtyards, delicate arches atop marble columns, marvellous fountains and much more to delight the eye.
Areas open to visitors include 14th century public rooms; the sultan's private rooms; the Salon of the Boat, named after its inverted, boat-shaped wooden ceiling;the Salon of the Ambassadors, where the sultans received Christian emissaries, with a domed, cedar ceiling and stuccoed and tiled walls; the harem, surrounding the Fountain of Lions; the beautiful and richly decorated Room of the Abencerrajes, known as the spot where the nobles of the Abencerraj family were murdered for upsetting the sultan of the day, boasting a high, domed ceiling with stalagtite vaulting, producing a star-like effect; the Hall of Kings, this time with paintings of royalty, medieval scenes and motifs on a leather-lined ceiling; the rooms of the sultan's favourite paramour; and more.

Buildings from the Christian era within the Alhambra include the 16th century Palacio de Carlos V, inside which can be found the National Museum of Hispano-Arabic Art and a Fine Arts Museum; the Church of St. Mary, built between 1581 - 1617 on the site of the former palace mosque; and St. Francis' Convent, which is now a parador.

Covering much of the hill facing the Alhambra across the valley of the River Darro is the Albaicin, the warren of hilly streets and narrow, ancient alleys of Granada's old Muslim quarter. Many signs of its Muslim past remain to be seen and a number of churches and villas are built on, or incorporate, the remains of Islamic structures. A walk through this district is a delightfully atmospheric experience. A pit-stop at certain of the outdoor cafes and restaurants provides the added bonus of views of the Alhambra above. As the day fades, a visit to the Mirador San Nicolas viewpoint is rewarded with superb views of the Alhambra, the Sierra Nevada mountains and, usually, a wonderful Spanish sunset.

Elsewhere in Granada is the cathedral, begun in the 16th century and completed in the 18th, adjoining which is the city's most impressive Christian building, the Royal Chapel, completed in 1521 in elaborate late Gothic style to be the Catholic monarchs' mausoleum. Their simple, lead coffins lie in the crypt beneath their marble effigies with additional, carved effigies above the crypt.

Day 12
Today is spent exploring Granada, with a second night's accommodation at the Casa Morisca.

Day 13
For this, the final day of the tour, you can sit back in the comfort of the car and watch the Spanish scenery go by, as we drive the 250 miles / 400km north to Madrid, leaving the region of Andalucia and passing through the sunbaked uplands of Castilla-La Mancha, Don Quixote country. There will be time for a couple more hours in Granada before we leave and we will certainly stop en route for lunch. Depending on your further travel plans, we can either take you back into Madrid or, if it's more convenient, straight to Madrid airport for your flight home. The timings for today depend very much on your plans and preferences.

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The cost of this tour is GB£5850 - for the tour, not per person. This price covers all expenses of car and driver, including fuel and driver's meals and accommodation. It does not cover your travel to/from Madrid at the start and end of the tour, nor your meals, accommodation and entrance to attractions during the tour.
Total cost of accommodation as per the itinerary above will be around GB£2100 on a bed and breakfast basis for two people sharing rooms (this is for the rooms, not per person). You pay each hotel on check-out. We will reserve all rooms for you and confirm the cost at the time of booking the tour.

We think this is an excellent tour and it is our only standard offering. Despite this, it can be tweaked to suit individual wishes - just let us know what you want. The description above is fairly comprehensive, however if you would like any further information, please do not hesitate to ask.